Rabat, Morocco Goes Back to the Future

Here is my first article! Mary wants us to find the underreported and lighter stories, which I think is certainly a good way to start. Instead of giving detailed edits on this story she chose to give us a big idea to improve our stories. Her advice to me was to write more of a report and less of a story, answer any questions I raise, and to seek out different views for a more balanced story. Our first assignment was to write about something that surprises us in Rabat:

Rabat, Morocco Goes Back to the Future

Rabat-The sun sets over Rabat, Morocco’s old Kasbah, reflecting the orange brick and mud walls of the pre-colonial fortress. Any visitor would believe he had been transported back in time, until, in complete silence, the tram whizzes by over the modern iron and steel Hassan II Bridge. Rabat, Morocco’s capital, is the first city in the country to be outfitted with a brand new, ultra modern tramway as part of a grand modernization campaign funded by the state. Up until June 2010, when the new addition was completed, Rabat’s only form of public transportation was an outdated bus system. Now the city has entered a new era and its residents have made an incredible adjustment.

In New York, Paris, or Boston, public transportation infrastructure has been in place for so many generations that it has become a part of the city landscape. Children grow up learning to ride their city’s local train system so that it is second nature by the time they leave primary school. In Morocco the tram is brand new for everyone, but Rabatis have incorporated it into their ancient city amazingly smoothly. How do you teach a city of 621,000 people to use a completely new mode of transportation? Jamali Kdihi, a ticket controller on the line two trams during the busy evening rush hour period, says that city dwellers did not need much encouragement to try out the new form of transportation. Speaking in French, Kdihi says “The State paid; it’s the major part of the campaign to improve Rabat. They had plans since the 1970’s and the construction has taken place since 2007 so they [the Rabatis] were eager to take the tram,” he says. One tram user, graphic designer Dounya Jamal, expanded on this saying that she never second-guessed using the new form of transport. She explains in french, “Before the tram I drove from my home in Salé to work in Rabat. It was bad for the environment and I was always late because of the traffic. The tram is more chic and anyone can afford the ticket for six Dirham.

One explanation for Rabat’s quick adjustment is Kdihi whose job involves riding the tram back and forth between Rabat and its small suburb, Salé, checking that people have validated their tickets in the small machines onboard. He believes that no one gets away with a free ride, but acknowledges that some people are still learning how to use the ticket machine so he patiently reminds them to validate. Kdihi points out that he is just a small part of an official campaign to help the city become accustomed to the tram. He says, “There are clear signs all over the tram and its stations to help people learn.” Drivers and pedestrians also had to learn, “There were commercials on the radio and tv and new lights and road signs were installed” Kdihi continues. There have been a few accidents, particularly collisions with cars, but Kdihi is quick to say that accidents were bound to happen and they are becoming less frequent. Jamal, the designer, agrees and thinks the state-installed signs have helped her stay safe when walking across the tram tracks. After only a few rides she felt that she had mastered the novel system.

As Kdihi walks around the tram’s four connected cars he pats the heads of children and shakes hands with frequent travellers, asking each about their days. People seem to enjoy the ride, looking out the window or just sitting quietly with their thoughts. He is proud of his job and works hard to protect the tram, even ensuring that photographs, which are currently not permitted inside of the tram, are not taken. Both he and Jamal smile at the mention of Rabat’s victory over Casablanca, achieving completion of their tram before the famous city. Approaching the Bab Chellah stop, Kdihi says “there is no doubt” that the network, currently made up of two lines, will soon be extended. As the ticket controller continues down the car smiling at passengers the tram glides away from the old world architecture of the medina’s Chellah Gate, but no, it is not time travel. It is a symbol of the flexibility of a people steeped in cultural heritage and their readiness to move into the future. –Veronica Jean Seltzer